learned something today

Today is the Friday before the long summer holiday of FerAgosto. Businesses that have not shut down yet, as this period starts more or less around 20 July, will do so today. From Banks to small shops, everyone is going on vacation. The Pope left the Vatican for his summer Palace at Castel Gandolfo, the President of Italy has also gone to the Summer Presidential Palace, a former Royal palace, the Prime Minister Sylvio Berlusconi is apparently still at work, but his summer house in Sardinia is waiting for him.
So I went to coffee this morning across the street from the office as always, they are closing too, but for renovations, said my goodbyes, Mario the owner and his sister asked me where I was going on vacation, wish me well and see you in September. I had said my goodbyes last week to my barber who is going to his house on the sea near Naples. Same for my butcher, the dry cleaner, etc.. Same with the cashier at the supermarket, she too is leaving, they are on special summer hours like all supermarkets in the city open only from 10am to 1pm and may be open or closed on Saturdays and Sundays until 03 September. The pharmacies are all closed except for those who remain open a handful in this city of 3 million people. You can find out which ones are open and where by asking your pharmacist ahead of time what the schedule is for August. The Vet is also partially closed 3 hours a day only. As for doctors and dentists well just don't get sick in August it is not fashionable. The gas stations are also closing, you cannot get your car washed and gas is available only at certain hours in designated stations. Some are only operated by automatic dispenser pump machines, you pay the machine, let's say you want 10 euro worth of gas which is the equivalent of 5 liters more of less, you put your paper money into the machine, it gives no change, must be exact, and you then ask the nice Sri Lankan man to pump the amount. This is what they are for, every gas station in Rome has 2 or 4 Sri Lankan men who sit there all day until midnight waiting for people to come feed the machine money for gas and then they pump the amount for you, you are not allowed to touch the gas pumps. The men are probably the chief export from their country Sri Lanka except for tea.

It is hard to believe that in this day and age, a country shuts down for a month to go on holiday. However this is what I like about living in Italy, the rituals of life, each seasons brings a ritual and everyone knows it. Only the foreigners are surprised by these rituals. If you visit Rome in August you will probably not realize what is going on, the centre of Rome is open for the tourists, but the prices are high because they provide a premium service. Example a coffee (espresso) usually 0.70 cents, for you nice tourist 2.50 Euros, a sandwich, usually 1.20 Euros for you only 5 Euros, bag of chips small, usually 1.50 for you only 6 Euros. There are still bargains but you have to know what to look for outside of the centre. Gelato is the big rip off, in the historical centre many places will sell gelato, however it is not the homemade stuff we buy in the neighborhood made on the premises in the morning, it is made in a factory somewhere with a lot of sugar and other products and sold at 4 times the price. The tell tale sign is the flavours, Gelato is made from fresh fruits in season, you also have the chocolate and pistachio but they will not have that terribly sweet taste, in fact the chocolate has a coco taste a little bitter, we all know the tourists will not like that so given them the factory stuff.

By going to Pesaro, we will be in tourist mecca on the coast with all of Italy, we will pay the higher prices of course because it is the season, but the clientele being Italians will get a little extra, it is part of life and is expected. So we just have to pack our bags tomorrow and off we go.





We are driving early Sunday morning to Pesaro on the Adriatic and I checked the weather and it shows rain on Sunday in Rome as of noon time, then in Pesaro rain on the coast on Tuesday and Wednesday, maybe we will miss it out, keeping my fingers crossed.