Showing posts with label Napoli. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Napoli. Show all posts

Monday, 21 April 2014

Next Holiday please

Well now that Easter is behind us for another year, what is next? Here in Ottawa it's the tulip Festival a gift of the Royal Family of the Netherlands who spent the Second World War in the Capital.

Already the National Capital Commission is setting up in the various parks the tulip beds and the fencing to keep the pesky squirrels out. Our Nora is doing her best to hunt them down.

Here are some photos of this year's Easter day.

 Easter flower arrangements for the table in a great porcelain egg

Pastiera Napoletana, traditional Neapolitan dessert of Easter, whole wheat berries, ricotta, essence of orange blossoms 

Home made coloured hard boiled eggs

 Bunny bread crown
Glass chick in Egg, the first gift I bought Will all those decades ago

Easter cookies

 Nora waiting for her Easter bar-b-q black squirrel she caught, nothing better

Monsieur Nicky, watching out for his roasted leg of lamb, thinking they always make me wait the stinkers

Monday, 14 April 2014

Pizza, Pizza!

When we first moved to Rome a colleague of mine who was leaving said you know they cannot even make decent pizza here. I was very surprised by this blanket statement. Did the Italian not invent the pizza? Did they loose the recipe somewhere? How could this be, how could Italians not make something that is quintessentially associated with Italy. But this was not the end of it, I quickly discovered other colleagues who did not like the Italian food served in Italy.

Now that was quite the surprised, one colleague upon arriving a few months after me with her 2 kids, well let's say adult teenagers declared that Italy had the worst Lasagna in the world. Now in this case she had ordered lasagna in a well known restaurant where I had been myself several times.  So I asked in a state of bewilderment what did she mean, what happened I said to her. She proceeded to explain that in Canada they had a tradition of having dinner at 5pm promptly. Oh, I said, knowing that in Italy at that hour of the day most people are at work or having an aperitivo usually a glass of Prosecco, dinner is later usually around 8pm or 9pm.

She then went on to described her lasagna experience. She explained that the dish had veal instead of beef and not much of it, it was more like a creamy cheese tomato sauce not at all like hers which even if you shake the plate would stand tall and firm like a tower that you cut with a knife. I see I said, there was nothing else on the menu she recognized so foreign these Italian dishes were from what we have in Canada. She was convinced that in Italy all they had on the menu was pasta dishes and nothing else.  She was taken aback by the offer of beef, veal and lamb and then the various fish and seafood dishes. Italian cuisine is varied to say the least and depends a lot on the region for specialities.

So my colleague who so disliked Pizza in Italy did so because it was not loaded with ingredients and meat like in Canada. Pizza was historically speaking a food for the poor, invented in Campania to feed those who could not afford anything else, essentially a flat hot piece of bread with one topping, usually a bit of tomato sauce or a bit of green and mushrooms. Just enough to satisfy the appetite and sold on street corners for pennies.


Pizza with truffles and figs with ricotta cheese.

Pizza in Italy is sold in many different ways from small family owned shops. It may come in a big square pan with different toppings known as Pizza al Taglio meaning it is cut in square pieces and you buy a square the size of your hand or more with the toppings you want. It is also made in a pan a meter long and sold by weight Pizza alla pala. You may also find it in circular dishes and sold in triangle wedge Pizza Americana, but this is more rare. Or again in a Pizzeria your pizza is the size of a round dinner plate Pizza Tonda, always cooked in a wood burning oven this is a point of dogma and is followed carefully by Italians.

Pizza wedge with prosciutto 

Small Pizzette, one bite pizza

Other style of Pizza are Calzone, pizza Genovese, pizza foggiana,(Foggia, Puglia) pizza siciliana, pizza marchigiana (Marche region) and panzerotto (stuffed similar to a calzone). There is also the pizzette and pizzelle, (small dollar size pizza).

But there is more, in Rome a Pizza Napoletana is topped with tomato, mozzarella and fresh anchovies.
Order it in Naples and it comes without the mozzarella and is seasoned with oregano and garlic, it is also called Marinara even though it has nothing to do with the Mare (sea).
Not to forget that your pizza comes either Alta (high) typical of Naples or Bassa (thin or low crust) typical of Rome.

You cannot find any of this in Canada, so this is why my colleagues were so confused.




Monday, 4 November 2013

The Island of Capri

We are currently in Castellamare di Stabia south of Naples. Known in antiquity as Stabia the place where Pliny the Elder died in 79 AD when Mount Vesuvius exploded in the bay of Naples destroying Pompeii and Herculanum in the process.

If Stabia was a lovely village then today it is an ugly town. We are in Castellamara di Stabia only because our Captain chose prudence last night when a heavy storm passed over us on our way from Rome to Sorrento decided to stop here.

Our visit to Capri was wonderful, such a beautiful island just off the coast in front of Naples, a 55 minute jet boat ride in very choppy water. The sky was overcast and dark, when we got to Capri it was sunny and cool. Being a Sunday it was also more quiet in this off season. Population of Capri is 10,000 people, a very green island with spectacular scenery.
The Island has 5 Leading Hotels of the World which could be seen as a bit much but Capri does attract a very wealthy clientele. They are all Palaces in the grand old style with fantastic views of the Bay of Naples and Old Vesuvius or the sea and beyond.




Garden of Hotel Krupp (which was the home of the German Industrial Family) 


 Limestone rock face in the gardens of Augustus
Picola Marina Capri


Me in the Garden of Dr. Axel Munthe's House in AnaCapri

 I thought this Roman Pine looked like a sprig of Brocoli


 From the garden of the Munthe House looking at the Villa Jovis of dear old Tiberius,
you can make out the foundations of the palace and buildings. 


Here we are sitting on the balcony of our ship as the sun sets on the Bay of Naples facing Capri and listening to Noël Coward sing  ''a Bar on the Picola Marina''



Sunday, 3 November 2013

Ognissanti, 1 Novembre Commemorazione dei defunti.

On this day we commemorate the Dead and all the Saints of Christianity.  It is a holiday in Italy and in many European countries.

Cemetery Island of Capri

We went to see the exhibit at Palazzo Sciarra on the treasury of San Gennaro Patron Saint of Naples from the Royal Chapel of the Cathedral of Naples. The Exhibit opened on 30 October at the Palazzo Sciarra on Via del Corso in Rome and runs until 16 February 2014.
mostrasangennarorome.it

Sorry I do not have photos of this exhibit in Rome of the Treasury of San Gennaro, unfortunately no photos are allowed and guards are everywhere given the amount of gems and precious object on display. Do have a look at the link for info and photos.

The Treasure of San Gennaro (Januarius) devoted to him is unique in the World, formed 700 years ago by the people of Naples. The treasure is preserved in the Royal Chapel devoted to the Saint in the Cathedral of Naples since 13 January 1527 as a guarantee against external threats to the city and its people. Today a Deputation composed of 12 ancient families (Sedili) of Naples are the guardians. In total 70 pieces are on display. Spectacular pieces like the Mitre, in gilded silver, diamonds, rubies, emeralds and garnets, created my Matteo Treglia in 1714 or the Necklace of San Gennaro created by Michele Dato in 1679 in gold, silver and precious stones. The choice of gems is full of meaning, emeralds represent the union between the Sanctity of the Saint and the emblem of Eternity and Power, Rubies the blood of martyrs and diamonds an eternal Faith. The treasure of San Gennaro has a long history, which, amidst devotion and prejudice, faith and disbelief, is closely associated with the history of the Kingdom of Naples and its people.    

It is a beautiful exhibit and the wealth of the artworks which are made of solid gold and silver encrusted with thousands of precious stones is impressive. The audio guide gives a very good description of the various pieces on display. The wealth alone of the treasure of San Gennaro is breathtaking, gifts of kings and Queens of Europe to cult of San Gennaro said to be the most popular Saint with an estimated 25 million followers. On his birthday two vials of his blood are taken out of the Chapel and shown to the faithful, the blood liquefies and this brings good tidings to Naples.

Today was another beautiful day in Rome and we had lunch at a favourite restaurant La Matriciana on Via del Viminale in front of the Teatro dell'Opera di Roma. The food is quite good and the decor is 1930 art deco. The restaurant owned by the same family since 1870.  We met with friends and it was very nice to have good conversation and fine food.

We also did a little shopping for shoes and shirts, you can never have enough Italian shoes or Italian made shirts.

Thursday, 5 April 2012

Passover-Easter

Tonight we have a full moon and Sunday is Easter. Little do people know that the Apostles did not celebrate Easter but Passover, after all they were Jews. Early Christians or followers of Jesus were mostly Jews. As the centuries went by Christians celebrated Passover with the Jews, it is only with the passing of time that Christians started to develop their own traditions and beliefs independent of Jews. By the third century the scale was tipped and most Christians were non-Jews, pagans were starting to join in other words. By the first Council of Nicea in 325 AD the Emperor as head of the Christian Church decided that all Christian Churches in the Roman Empire would celebrate Easter on the same day instead of having different dates for the celebration and it would be independent from Passover, it would also be celebrated on a Sunday instead of the day of Jewish Sabbath, Saturday. Today we celebrate the Easter Bunny who brings everyone chocolates for your salvation. I am not sure which Council made the Easter Bunny the other son of God.

Anyway enjoy and have a good Easter or Passover.
High Altar Church in Palermo, Sicily


But one tradition which we started last year in Rome is the making of the Pasteria a recipe given to Will by a friend from Napoli, the recipe is from his Grandmother. It is the traditional Easter pastry in Southern Italy.
Made from good quality Ricotta cheese and using such ingredients as pre-cooked grano, vanilla, Orange blossom essence, Cinnamon, Candied fruit, it takes 2 days to make. Last year Will made several Pasteria and brought one to Easter lunch at a friends house. One of the guest was the great grand-daughter of Giuseppe Garibaldi, Anita Garibaldi declared it to be the best Pasteria she had ever tasted, making Will an honorary Italian Citizen. I am glad he is making it this year, it is very good. 


 Pasteria a traditional Italian Easter dish.

Monday, 23 May 2011

Catania to Napoli


We left Sicily at 19:40 on the good ship Partenone, not many many people on board, but the ship is a lot cleaner than the one we took coming down to Sicily, in fact it even smells clean. The company TTT lines has 2 ships and they simply do the route Napoli, Catania and back.
 Sailing out of Catania into the Ionian Sea and turning left to sail up to the straits of Messina

Lots of tourists, mostly Germans and a few Italians, and some truck drivers. Dinner was a very simple affair, 2 pastas, 2 mystery meats, some salad, bread and water, good but simple. It also seems that in Italy, on ferries dinner is served early and ends early, usually by 20:45 it is all done. Then everyone goes to the lounge for coffee and a drink.
 Catania with Mount Etna in the background barely visible hidden by clouds, only the slope is visible.

As we left the port of Catania we made a sharp left turn into the wind, we are having squalls tonight up the coast of Sicily and the boat is experiencing some rolling, despite the fact that it weighs 7000 tons. We were also able to get a dramatic view of Mount Etna though is was partilly hidden by low clouds it still occupies a good part of the immediate horizon, that is how big it is and how it dwarfs the city of Catania. We are not far off the coast, you can see clearly the lights of each little town as we go up to Messina and in fact you can also see the cars on the highway. Messina is the narrowest point with the toe of the Italian boot, to cross to Reggio Calabria is only 20 minutes at that point. After Messina we are back into open sea all the way up to Napoli. Hopefully the sea will be calmer after that point.
In all the trip takes 12 hours. On arrival in Napoli we will take the highway up to Rome and should be in Rome in under 3 hours time tops.
 Vesuvius in the early morning as we enter the port of Napoli.