Showing posts with label Naples. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Naples. Show all posts

Monday, 14 April 2014

Pizza, Pizza!

When we first moved to Rome a colleague of mine who was leaving said you know they cannot even make decent pizza here. I was very surprised by this blanket statement. Did the Italian not invent the pizza? Did they loose the recipe somewhere? How could this be, how could Italians not make something that is quintessentially associated with Italy. But this was not the end of it, I quickly discovered other colleagues who did not like the Italian food served in Italy.

Now that was quite the surprised, one colleague upon arriving a few months after me with her 2 kids, well let's say adult teenagers declared that Italy had the worst Lasagna in the world. Now in this case she had ordered lasagna in a well known restaurant where I had been myself several times.  So I asked in a state of bewilderment what did she mean, what happened I said to her. She proceeded to explain that in Canada they had a tradition of having dinner at 5pm promptly. Oh, I said, knowing that in Italy at that hour of the day most people are at work or having an aperitivo usually a glass of Prosecco, dinner is later usually around 8pm or 9pm.

She then went on to described her lasagna experience. She explained that the dish had veal instead of beef and not much of it, it was more like a creamy cheese tomato sauce not at all like hers which even if you shake the plate would stand tall and firm like a tower that you cut with a knife. I see I said, there was nothing else on the menu she recognized so foreign these Italian dishes were from what we have in Canada. She was convinced that in Italy all they had on the menu was pasta dishes and nothing else.  She was taken aback by the offer of beef, veal and lamb and then the various fish and seafood dishes. Italian cuisine is varied to say the least and depends a lot on the region for specialities.

So my colleague who so disliked Pizza in Italy did so because it was not loaded with ingredients and meat like in Canada. Pizza was historically speaking a food for the poor, invented in Campania to feed those who could not afford anything else, essentially a flat hot piece of bread with one topping, usually a bit of tomato sauce or a bit of green and mushrooms. Just enough to satisfy the appetite and sold on street corners for pennies.


Pizza with truffles and figs with ricotta cheese.

Pizza in Italy is sold in many different ways from small family owned shops. It may come in a big square pan with different toppings known as Pizza al Taglio meaning it is cut in square pieces and you buy a square the size of your hand or more with the toppings you want. It is also made in a pan a meter long and sold by weight Pizza alla pala. You may also find it in circular dishes and sold in triangle wedge Pizza Americana, but this is more rare. Or again in a Pizzeria your pizza is the size of a round dinner plate Pizza Tonda, always cooked in a wood burning oven this is a point of dogma and is followed carefully by Italians.

Pizza wedge with prosciutto 

Small Pizzette, one bite pizza

Other style of Pizza are Calzone, pizza Genovese, pizza foggiana,(Foggia, Puglia) pizza siciliana, pizza marchigiana (Marche region) and panzerotto (stuffed similar to a calzone). There is also the pizzette and pizzelle, (small dollar size pizza).

But there is more, in Rome a Pizza Napoletana is topped with tomato, mozzarella and fresh anchovies.
Order it in Naples and it comes without the mozzarella and is seasoned with oregano and garlic, it is also called Marinara even though it has nothing to do with the Mare (sea).
Not to forget that your pizza comes either Alta (high) typical of Naples or Bassa (thin or low crust) typical of Rome.

You cannot find any of this in Canada, so this is why my colleagues were so confused.




Monday, 4 November 2013

The Island of Capri

We are currently in Castellamare di Stabia south of Naples. Known in antiquity as Stabia the place where Pliny the Elder died in 79 AD when Mount Vesuvius exploded in the bay of Naples destroying Pompeii and Herculanum in the process.

If Stabia was a lovely village then today it is an ugly town. We are in Castellamara di Stabia only because our Captain chose prudence last night when a heavy storm passed over us on our way from Rome to Sorrento decided to stop here.

Our visit to Capri was wonderful, such a beautiful island just off the coast in front of Naples, a 55 minute jet boat ride in very choppy water. The sky was overcast and dark, when we got to Capri it was sunny and cool. Being a Sunday it was also more quiet in this off season. Population of Capri is 10,000 people, a very green island with spectacular scenery.
The Island has 5 Leading Hotels of the World which could be seen as a bit much but Capri does attract a very wealthy clientele. They are all Palaces in the grand old style with fantastic views of the Bay of Naples and Old Vesuvius or the sea and beyond.




Garden of Hotel Krupp (which was the home of the German Industrial Family) 


 Limestone rock face in the gardens of Augustus
Picola Marina Capri


Me in the Garden of Dr. Axel Munthe's House in AnaCapri

 I thought this Roman Pine looked like a sprig of Brocoli


 From the garden of the Munthe House looking at the Villa Jovis of dear old Tiberius,
you can make out the foundations of the palace and buildings. 


Here we are sitting on the balcony of our ship as the sun sets on the Bay of Naples facing Capri and listening to Noël Coward sing  ''a Bar on the Picola Marina''



Sunday, 3 November 2013

Ognissanti, 1 Novembre Commemorazione dei defunti.

On this day we commemorate the Dead and all the Saints of Christianity.  It is a holiday in Italy and in many European countries.

Cemetery Island of Capri

We went to see the exhibit at Palazzo Sciarra on the treasury of San Gennaro Patron Saint of Naples from the Royal Chapel of the Cathedral of Naples. The Exhibit opened on 30 October at the Palazzo Sciarra on Via del Corso in Rome and runs until 16 February 2014.
mostrasangennarorome.it

Sorry I do not have photos of this exhibit in Rome of the Treasury of San Gennaro, unfortunately no photos are allowed and guards are everywhere given the amount of gems and precious object on display. Do have a look at the link for info and photos.

The Treasure of San Gennaro (Januarius) devoted to him is unique in the World, formed 700 years ago by the people of Naples. The treasure is preserved in the Royal Chapel devoted to the Saint in the Cathedral of Naples since 13 January 1527 as a guarantee against external threats to the city and its people. Today a Deputation composed of 12 ancient families (Sedili) of Naples are the guardians. In total 70 pieces are on display. Spectacular pieces like the Mitre, in gilded silver, diamonds, rubies, emeralds and garnets, created my Matteo Treglia in 1714 or the Necklace of San Gennaro created by Michele Dato in 1679 in gold, silver and precious stones. The choice of gems is full of meaning, emeralds represent the union between the Sanctity of the Saint and the emblem of Eternity and Power, Rubies the blood of martyrs and diamonds an eternal Faith. The treasure of San Gennaro has a long history, which, amidst devotion and prejudice, faith and disbelief, is closely associated with the history of the Kingdom of Naples and its people.    

It is a beautiful exhibit and the wealth of the artworks which are made of solid gold and silver encrusted with thousands of precious stones is impressive. The audio guide gives a very good description of the various pieces on display. The wealth alone of the treasure of San Gennaro is breathtaking, gifts of kings and Queens of Europe to cult of San Gennaro said to be the most popular Saint with an estimated 25 million followers. On his birthday two vials of his blood are taken out of the Chapel and shown to the faithful, the blood liquefies and this brings good tidings to Naples.

Today was another beautiful day in Rome and we had lunch at a favourite restaurant La Matriciana on Via del Viminale in front of the Teatro dell'Opera di Roma. The food is quite good and the decor is 1930 art deco. The restaurant owned by the same family since 1870.  We met with friends and it was very nice to have good conversation and fine food.

We also did a little shopping for shoes and shirts, you can never have enough Italian shoes or Italian made shirts.

Wednesday, 12 December 2012

Festa di Santa Lucia a Siracusa

December 13 is the Feast day of Santa Lucia a Siracusa in Sicily. A famous Saint of the Christian Church this Santa Lucia. On her Feast Day her silver statue is processed through the streets of Siracusa in Sicily. She is represented holding in her hand a plate containing a pair of eyes, hers, the story goes that she plucked them out herself because being a Virgin a Roman suitor had said he was captivated by her eyes. Santa Lucia is the Patron Saint of Sight and a little sweet pastry is made to look like a pair of eyes, it is called Gli Occhi di Santa Lucia, it is a sort of Biscotti.

Lucia a Christian Virgin, a concept not well understood in ancient Rome, was condemned to work as a prostitute in a brothel. She refused and was stabbed in the throat by her captors. This is why her statue shows her with a dagger in her throat.

Santa Lucia in a museum in Palermo, statue is made of papier maché and painted cork wood.

The silver statue of Santa Lucia from the Cathedral of Siracusa in Sicily being paraded in the streets of the City on 13 December.

She is also the Saint who provides food for the hungry and many miracles through out the ages are attributed to her, such as the one of 1582 in Siracusa when a boat filled with wheat appeared in the Port of the City during a great famine.

Great bonfires are lighted in Sicily on the 13 December in her honour and a dessert called Cuccia to rhyme with Lucia is made. It is composed of whole wheat berries cooked in water mixed in with sweetened ricotta and decorated with candied orange bits and shavings of chocolate.

The name ''Santa Lucia'' is famous for a different reason in Italy -as a traditional Neapolitan song written in praise of the picturesque waterfront district, Borgo Santa Lucia on the Bay of Naples. In 1849 Santa Lucia became the first Neapolitan song to the given Italian lyrics and sung as a barcarola (gondolier's song) in the early stages of the Risorgimento, the fight for the Unification of Italy.




Here is the celebrated and famous Enrico Caruso singing the song, he made famous, Santa Lucia from a recording of March 1916.










Friday, 22 April 2011

PASTIERA della PASQUA

Pastiera is a sweet dessert pie made from wheat grains and ricotta cheese with orange and lemon blossoms. It is a typical dish of Naples and made for Easter. Many families have their own favourite recipe and several variations exist. Will got a friend from Naples to share with him his mother's recipe for Pastiera.
If you want to know how the recipe turned out look at this picture, from 2 pies he actually made 4 pastiera.
The house smells of wonderful fresh pastry and orange blossoms.

see Will's blog at www.willyorwonthe.blogspot.com for all the details.

Auguri a Tutti! Buona Pasqua!


Saturday, 22 May 2010

another music day in Salzburg





Well we had quite a day today, first the weather, turned out sunny and warm despite all predictions that it would rain all day.
The crowds came out everywhere in the squares and all along the river banks of the Salzach. Our morning concert at the Mozartheum was very beautiful, though the concert hall tends to be very warm due to poor air circulation. I also noticed a naked statue of Mozart in the lobby, he appears under the form of Apollo, god of music. We had lunch in a very good Japanese restaurant, not surprised given the number of Japanese here. I discovered that Kirin Ichiban Beer is owned by Heineken and made in Russia under licence. We then went to Demel for coffee and pastries. The late afternoon we saw the opera Piramo and Tisbe by Johann Adolph Hasse composed around 1768 is an obscure piece and maybe it should stay that way. We left after the first act, pretty music but boring, it is the old theme along the lines of the Romeo and Juliette story. We returned to the hotel for dinner and Gunther our barman, who we believe to be the best barman in the world, served us dinner, Will chose from the Austrian Imperial menu, which are favorite foods of the Kaiser Franz Josef, wiener schnitzel and I had veal cutlets in morel sauce with white asparagus. To start we had goose liver paté, a personal favorite with a coulis of red pimento and strawberry.

We then went to the movies, as part of the Festival this year they had a 1927 silent movie called Naples is a song, accompanied with techno music. The movie was great, it had a scene shot at the top of the Vesuvius, which was smoking with a huge plume back in those days. The street scenes of Naples were very interesting and funny.

We came back around midnight and Gunther the Bar man had night caps for us.
Tomorrow we have a concert at 11 am and then we are free. We will probably go to the Goldener Hirsch (golden stag) for dinner.
It is one of the best hotels in the world and their restaurant is very nice. Hopefully tomorrow which is Pentecost and a major holiday here in this very Catholic country, we will have sunny weather again.

Morning rush




This morning after a night of very heavy rain, the sky seems to want to clear. Hopefully the weather will be warmer, though it is not unpleasant. We went down to the breakfast room, really good offering for breakfast and they have those really nice pork sausage with herbs that I like so much and all kinds of other good stuff. Had a little chat with the hotel owner about the festival and exchanged views about the artists this year and last. He took over from his mother who has retired, a very charming fellow.

His background is not hotel business but music he was for many years with the Vienna ensemble and now he runs this beautiful hotel. I took a few pictures of the hotel public rooms, what a lovely place it is. This morning or today is going to be a busy day, 2 concerts and a silent movie from 1928 called Naples is a song. Remember this festival is devoted to Naples of the baroque era 1660-1770, when it was music capital of the world reknown for its Music schools and violin teachers and virtuosis like Geminiani, Matteis, Porpora, Scarlatti and Barbella.

We will hear Giuliano Carmignola, violin, Riccardo Doni, Ivano Zanenghi and Francesco Galligioni playing as an ensemble though they are single artists.

So off we go to hear and see all this wonderful art.