Delia Smith, an icon of the BBC Cooking shows.

During the year there are lots of Holidays and the food offered is usually the same. The dishes go with the idea or spirit of that holiday. It seems that turkey is always coming back and if not turkey then its burgers or hot dogs. I am thinking here of Victoria Day in May, that is the start of the Summer Season and Cottage opening time, so a Bar-B-Q is de rigueur. Then Canada Day again being Summer and July more Bar-B-Q meats of all kinds. At Thanksgiving in October it's roast Turkey or ham and the same at Christmas and or New Year. At Easter it can be a ham though I one point Lamb was a favourite, though Canadian Lamb is becoming quite expensive, New Zealand lamb is quite cheap but full of chemicals and so lately people have been cooking other dishes.  In Canada Tourtière is popular, the famous meat pie of French-Canada, though how it is prepared is important and what quality ingredients you use makes a difference. For some reason the Lac St-Jean version of the tourtière seems a favourite with some people or at least in popular mindset.

Personally, I am not a fan of turkey nor tourtière meat pie, so come any major holiday and I will not think of having either dishes on the table. As for ham at Easter, I like ham in a sandwich but not at a main dish for a feast, I am also horrified by the tradition of sticking pineapple and cherries on it.

So I am always looking for new ideas for Holiday meals, even if it is just for a simple Bar-B-Q in the Summer, I want something different.  Instead of turkey, why not Goose or Cornish Hens, instead of beef burgers why not veal and beef or mixed with some pork burger stuffed with soft cheese and mixed with herbs and a strong dry mustard. Of course you can also get dishes of Seafood, lobster meat (shelled) in a cream sauce or a mix of seafood served in timbale.

Delia Smith with her CBE

Here comes Delia Smith, who through the years has perfected Holiday cooking. I always liked her because her recipes are A, easy to follow, B, there are no mystery ingredients and C, anyone even someone with little experience can prepare her recipes. She proposes menus, from what type of hors d'oeuvres to prepare for a pre-Xmas party, to a dinner party during the Season to the Christmas day lunch menu timed in such a way as to leave cook with time to spare to relax and enjoy the day. By lunch time around 1:30pm all is ready. Of course Delia is an organized person and you have to be too. She will prepare her vegetables the day before, her desserts are also prepared a day or more in advance, so on the actual day only the bird and stuffing is left to be done. I liked her stuffing, a good mix of pork with fine bread crumbs and celery and herb mix. She also tells you to get a bird around 14 lbs no more, and shop around for a black turkey which is gamier and better tasting instead of the supermarket white one which is often very bland tasting. In her preparation of the bird she will smother it in butter and then place bacon strips on top. Placing it in a roasting pan builds a cover for it which allows for a cavity around the bird instead of having the foil wrap itself close and tight on the bird. This way while cooking air circulates all around and in the last 40 minutes of cooking you  remove the foil and let it roast to get that golden skin colour not forgetting to baste it.

She also cooks chipolatas and bacon separately this will accompany the bird and it is a very Bristish tradition. I do not know if you can get chipolatas in Canada.

This year for Christmas dinner I will cook Canadian Lamb filet (12 minutes cooking time) do some roasted vegetables and voilà. I have ordered my desserts and we also have the most wonderful home made Fruit Cake known as a John H. Special. Uncle Johnny has been making them for us for the last 40 years. I am not one to eat fruit cake usually but his Fruit Cake is really something to behold, it is home made and it is his recipe and a very nice recipe it is indeed. I also got a Stollen and we have nice cheeses,  a firm cheddar Goat cheese, some Stilton blue, and other cheeses with nice crackers and fruits like the big Clementines and a nice variety of apples.

Do have a look at Delia website, the one recipe I want to try because it looks so amazing ''Venison Braised in BlackFriars Porter ale and Port with Pickled Walnuts.'' If you do not like venison no problem substitute for beef instead. At any time in Winter this would make a fantastic dish.

http://www.deliaonline.com

Then there is one very light and wonderful dessert she makes which is perfect when your main dish is rich and heavy. This dessert is called, Champagne Jellies with Syllabub Cream and Frosted Grapes.
You do not have to use champagne instead use a Prosecco or a bubbly wine, much cheaper and perfect for this recipe.

Well my shopping is done for this Xmas so the next few days should be quiet, going to dinner at friends and cocktail parties.

 



  

Scotland!

Referendum day has come and I am listening to the BBC World Service running commentary on what is happening. It is odd really listening to this event taking place, shows how little I knew of Scottish politics in the UK.  It appears that the turnout is high or very high more than 88% in rural and suburban areas whereas in the Cities the turnout is much lower around 75%. Scotland is hoping to have as high a turnout as in the Quebec referendum of 1995 which was 93.5%. It looks likely they will achieve that given the importance of the vote and the question. The big story tonight is how incredible the voter turnout has been. Usually during British general elections the turnout is around 65% the numbers tonight are very high in comparison.

The population of Scotland is small at 5.2 million Scots, somewhat smaller than the population of the City of Toronto. This does not count all the Scottish diaspora around the world, who cannot vote in this referendum. Scotland is portrayed as more left leaning and liberal than Britain. Because of its small population it cannot influence Parliament in Westminster and has little say in the budget. Scottish Labour is seen as unable to disassociate itself from the free-market and austerity policies of the moment, which makes it unpopular. By tomorrow the results either for or against independence, one thing appear certain the old certainties of the past will be dead and gone. The consequence for Cameron and the Conservatives are huge, it would probably mean the government will fall and Cameron will have no choice but to resign. As for Labour it will also be a shock and their future will be also uncertain. No Prime Minister wants to be remembered as the one who lost the Union. However watching the vote results come in Scotland appears divided, there are strong opinions in either camp.

Either way Britain tomorrow morning will be a different country. What I like about the coverage is how there is talk now even before the final results are in of change and how Westminster needs to change, respect for the aspirations of the Scots. It will be interesting to see how this evolves between now and 2016. What is also impressive is the level of respectful dialogue between people on either camp, except maybe for Ukip. There is none of the insults and bad language and immature attitudes we so often find here in Canada when there is differences of opinion after elections.

I would agree with commentators that Canadians and people in Quebec all have a lot to learn on how to run a referendum on such questions, much more mature and respectful in this case.

The Centennial of the Great War, August 1914-2014

Today on 1 August 1914 the Great War started for Canada, we entered the war on the side of Britain and the Empire. Canada sent 10% of its population to war, some 620,000 men, poorly equipped and trained. At the end of the war some 61,000 Canadian soldier will be dead and another 18,000 will be missing never to be found buried in the mud of the Western Front.

Rightly so the Canadian people would ask ''For What ?'' a question the Conservative government of Sir Robert Borden had no answer.

Look at this map of Europe in August 1918 and note how the old Continent looked then. Four great Empires would collapse, Germany, the Austro-Hungarian, Russian and Ottoman Turk. Britain despite the armistice in November 1918 very nearly collapsed. This war would change the world and Canada.

In 1919 Europe would see new countries emerge which did not exist previously, created from nationalistic grievances. The Paris Conference would create many new problems and the final Treaty of Versailles will plant the seeds for a new war even more devastating some 20 years later.

Canada would emerge as a great power and would become an independent country, leading to renewed prosperity until the great economic depression of 1929.

Who knew that August one hundred years ago what was about to happen to the old order.

Europe today looks again very different since 1989 and the fall of the Iron Curtain and Communism.

The ceramic poppies planted around the Tower of London and on show now until November.

Some 888,000 poppies represent the sea of blood this war provoked, no one won, ending in an armistice, a war that cause much misery and no resolution.

Crimea, Ukraine, Russia, then what?

During the Sochi Winter Olympics we were told by numerous officials that this was the symbol of the New Russia, post-USSR, modern dynamic etc... What we were really seeing was a bunch of modern buildings and infrastructure. Mentalities had not changed one Iota. Remember the Beijing Summer Olympics a few years ago. Well I was posted the that Communist Paradise from 2004-2007 and I saw how you can transform a city like Beijing by State Decree to impress the world with shiny new buildings and infrastructure this does not mean that attitude and government policy or general culture has changed. You can install new drapes and paint walls, you still have a derelict house.

Just a few days after the end of the Olympics it now seems we are back in the old Russia. President V. Putin decided that given event in the Ukraine he had to protect Russia's National Interests. Now Putin is playing to a National audience, his home base want a strong eternal Russia, the Mother Russia of Peter the Great or Ivan the terrible, it wants its Icons of its old past.

Putin has strong and influential supporters, the Orthodox Church in Moscow who wishes to control the Orthodox Church in the Ukraine, H.I.H Grand Duchess Maria Vladimirovna, pretender to the Romanov throne and would be Tsarina and her son HIH Crown Prince George, Tsarevitch and Prince of Prussia, they are allied with the Church and can claim many monarchist who dream of a return to Imperial times, the Russian business elite who has grown rich with Putin, the Russian armed forces who feel they are regaining their old strength and part of the Russia people who are xenophobic and respond well to anti-Western propaganda.

Today the Communist Party of China and the President of the People's Republic of China came down on the side of Putin and Russia. This is why China was so quiet since the operation Crimea started. The Ukrainian Puppet and Moscow's man, President in exile Victor Ianoukovitch who is just over the border is also supporting all of Russia's moves. All his moves and words are stage manage by handlers in Moscow. Ianoukovitch is largely irrelevant now but useful nonetheless.

Why would Russia decide to occupy the Crimea? Well history should be our guide, first the city of Sebastopol where the Russian Navy is anchored was the creation of Tsarina Catherine II the Great in 1783. Before her Tsar Peter the Great at fought with much vigour the Ottoman Turks to get free access to the Black Sea. Historically the Crimea is part of the mythical greatness of Imperial Russia.
Of course the native people of the Crimea where the Tatars who lived under the Ottoman Turk rule until 1782 when Turkey lost the war against Imperial Russia and gave up the Crimea to Russia. Many Muslim Tatar fled to other parts of the Ottoman Empire, the Crimea was then populated with Russians, Ruthènes (Ukrainians) Moldaves and Germans.

Many Russian and Soviet leaders came from the Ukraine, Christianity entered Russian through Kiev 1000 years ago, the Kievian-Rus links go back centuries and have nothing to do with what Vladimir Putin wishes, he is simply using history as a guide.

There is also the question of the Ukraine of today compared to the Ukraine of 1946, the whole Western part was Poland, cities like Lviv were Polish not Ukrainian.  All this to say that the picture is a very confused one and not a simple black and white issue.

In 1954 under the rule of Nikita Krouchtchev, Crimea was given to the Socialist Republic of Ukraine.
A personal gift of the Secretary of the Communist Party to his adopted homeland Ukraine.

What is now emerging of this situation is that Russia had a very well prepared strategy to take over Crimea. A given sets of circumstances would trigger the deployment of Russian troops. While the world was looking at various events in and around Russia, Putin had given orders to prepare for this eventuality, supporting the then President and marginalized the Opposition groups. That NATO, the EU and the USA failed to see what was happening is not credible, they most probably knew but thought that it would probably not happen. It is now known and the US Congress is investigating, that the CIA had reported numerous times of the very real possibility of Russia taking over Crimea. But in an inter-governmental agency dispute the State Department ignored the reports and did not pass them along.

So we are presented with a fait accompli, the Russians have taken over Crimea, NATO has done very little despite the meetings and posturing. A resolution was passed by member countries. NATO could have asked Turkey a member State to close the Bosphorus to prevent Russian Navy ships to travel up to the Black Sea but it did not. The EU and Britain are not in favour of any economic sanctions, remembering that gas and other trade investments come from Russia. Germany and France prefer dialogue, the UK has done nothing to freeze assets so as not to anger President Putin. Everyone seems to be looking out for their economic interests.

The USA cannot do much either despite threats which are largely empty. Canada has huffed and puffed because our PM Harper is big on grand gesture always with an eye for the easy vote, in this case the Canadian-Ukrainian community in Saskatchewan. Our Foreign Minister Rusty Baird has made silly remarks about the Sudetenland and 1939 making a show of his ignorance and puffery.
Trade between Russia and Canada has increased from $1.5 billion a year to $4.5 billion in the last 3 years, a detail that seems to elude our PM and the Government. It would appear that Canada is not much interested in trade and more so in grand empty statements. It is well known that Putin has a profound dislike for Harper.

As for war, the media has gone on and on about it, really war with Russia? Is anyone serious? There is no chance of war between the USA and Russia, first because the public in the USA is not interested in Crimea or Ukraine after the adventures in Iraq and Afghanistan. But more importantly war between the 2 powers would mean a nuclear war or the end of the world. NATO has been careful not to mention war and the wording of its declaration has been more of denunciation than anything else.
The EU even Poland which borders Russia is not talking war, sanctions maybe.

No politician cares much for this situation because Ukraine is a bankrupt country with multiple socio- economic problems, Russia remains the main important trade partner. What EU politicians are carefully doing is a ballet, giving one message to the masses in their respective countries to respond to their concerns over Human rights etc... but on the other hand carefully manage the fall-out with Russia to protect economic interests.

President Putin knows that the West is not going to do much beyond talking, he has carefully assessed past situations. He knows that he is still required to provide support to the EU and USA for the situation in Syria and Iran. So it is important not to alienate him otherwise those situations could drag on and become more complex than they are now. Just on the question of Iran, PM Netanyahu of Israël was making noises today while the world is busy with the crisis in Crimea.

The public also knows little about the new Government in Ukraine, though the various EU governments and politicians know probably more. There are some extreme elements in the group and some discredited Ukrainian politicians like Ioulia Timoshenko who was released from jail a few days ago, she certainly is not a unifying voice in Ukraine.

Will we discover later that the Ukrainian opposition are not partners with whom we wish to engage politically? Is Putin right in describing them as ultra-Nationalist and Fascists? His pronouncement are based on local history and how history is viewed and understood there. We cannot fall in the trap of deciding that Putin and Russia is wrong and all they say is merely propaganda to be dismissed. We too are often played for fools by our own politicians and media outlets.

Latest story today was that the EU was ready to concede the annexation of Crimea to Russia simply to buy peace and get guarantees that Putin will not try to annex the Eastern part of Ukraine. Stay tuned to see where this situation will go nowhere. Other developments reported by the magazine FP
mentions a private conversation between Catherine Ashton, EU Foreign Minister and Urmas Praet Estonia's Foreign Minister, they spoke on the phone and it was revealed that the sniper in Kiev who was responsible for most deaths is believed to be on the pay of the Opposition now in power.
Baroness Ashton was surprised to learn this from Urmas Praet who informed her that the Opposition now forming the new Government does not want the matter of the sniper to be investigated. Baroness Ashton simply said, neither do we. Could Putin be right, Kiev has been taken over by ultra-Nationalists and other extreme right groups but in the continuous East-West dispute we refuse to believe a word he is saying.

I want to offer my own solution to this crisis, since a lot of the power of the Russian Government stands at the moment on Oil and Gas and the enormous revenue it gives Russia, why not weaken Putin by attacking Oil and Gas revenues. Canada has lots of oil and gas and nowhere to send it. Why not offer energy contracts to the EU as a safe and reliable supplier.  It could be shipped directly from Canada's East Coast to Europe, no need for the Keystone XL Pipeline which is dead in the water at this time.

Canada by becoming the supplier of energy to Europe could help make Putin feel insecure. The Russian threat to cut-off shipments of oil and gas to Europe would vanish. A potential energy weapon which would force Putin to be far more agreeable once he has less money coming into his coffers.
It would enhance Canadian trade and increase our world profile.

Food and Food programs at Christmas time

At this time of the year there are a multitude of food programs with recipes for that perfect Christmas meal, cocktail, drink, party. All guaranteed to impress your guests to death and make you a celebrity.

It is all a bit silly when you think of it because unless you are a regular cook, someone who is comfortable in the kitchen and has imagination when in comes to food preparation and combination of different foods, well it can be a challenge to say the least to prepare a meal or a dish for that special Holiday event. Not to mention make it picture perfect like in that magazine.

I do however love to watch cooking shows at Christmas time, some of the recipes are intriguing and depending on the presenter/chef you can get that good feeling about a recipe and how beautiful it looks and how good it must be.

One Chef that I do like is Nigel Slater on the BBC Player, see www.bbc.co.uk/food

He is one of several chefs who present various recipes. What I like about him is that his recipes are or appear to be easy to make. I have tried a few and yes the result were as promised, no fuss and good.

I also watched another Chef on BBC, Delia Smith and she has a segment on Christmas Cakes, it looks easy and she certainly presents it that way, minimum fuss and preparation appears simple enough. Her method of presenting on air is old fashioned, first will show you the ingredients all pre-measured on a work table in her kitchen, then she puts all ingredients in a bowl and does a minimum of mixing, then jumps to the final product, voilà. You do not see her put the cake into the oven or take it out or even cutting the cake or tasting it. It is somewhat a little too surgical and just a little too pat. She also speaks to an audience of women, somewhat formal, no nonsense and no humour, you know she is not talking to men in the kitchen.

Rick Stein is another chef on the BBC, Rick has a restaurant and he is in business, big business.
He prepares dishes more to show you what can be done at Christmas time, I do not get the impression that you could do this at home. His preparation take place in his restaurant kitchen, it is all professional and he has other chefs to help him out, they work for him.  The results are great and he serves the food at a party for about 40 guests. It is fun to watch and you get the feel good of the Season.

But I return to Nigel, I have read his books on his life as a kid and love his recipes, he makes it easy and fun. The only one problem I have with his 12 Christmas dishes is how his producer for the series staged it all. We are told it is at his house in North London, a very modern and nice place with a great garden. Then the filming or shooting effects, the camera goes soft, zooms in and out of the kitchen, some shots are from the garden looking in or from the kitchen looking out, somewhat wistful, as if the cameraman is distracted by some external thought or souvenir. In the end it all looks a trifle recherché. Nigel also simpers to much a bit like an old lady.

In his Christmas special, he is in Scotland and Norway. First in Scotland in the Highlands with two good looking lads, he calls them the boys who cook a dish for a family dinner. Nigel watches them prepare a cocktail and a meat dish for an upcoming Christmas dinner and there is some double entendre banter throughout. Nigel purses his lips a little too much and needs a haircut.

Then off to Norway to select a Christmas Tree for Trafalgar Square, the tree has to be more than 20 meter high, a very big tree. So there is lots of walking in the woods with two Norwegians looking for the big tree. Finally finds one, a superb tree, 115 years old. We are told that since 1946 Norway has given Britain a Christmas tree every year as thanks for the help received during the Second World War.

This of course is a segway to another of his recipe, the Salmon Wellington which is very easy to make and looks wonderfully delicious.

This year we are not having Goose or Roast Beef or Crown of Lamb. My cousin is cooking and we will have a tourtière and a ham, vegetables and Plum Pudding and other desserts.
Though next year I do want to return to Roast Goose a favourite dish of mine at Christmas.

One tradition if we can call it that, is our friend John who for 30 odd years has produced wonderful
Fruit cakes at this time of the year. John has a unique talent to produce the most wonderful fruit cakes
from dark to light coloured ones. His fruit cake is the sort that you could eat in one go if you did not restrain yourself, they are that good. He also introduced a long time ago, the notion that his cakes keep for one to two years because they are soaking in Brandy or Rum and remain moist and delicious.  Indeed it seems that the vintage cakes are better tasting, richer and more flavourful.

My personal favourite is his light golden coloured fruit cake a real treat.

Dateline London

Centre looking towards Trafalgar Square.

We arrived in London for a short 48 hour stay before our return to Canada. Wish it could have been longer, London offers so much in terms of exhibits in its museums, Daumier presently at the Royal Academy, Elizabethan Portraits at the National Gallery and a very special exhibit until 24 November at Houghton Hall of all the fantastic collection of paintings Sir Robert Walpole sold to Catherine II the Great of Russia, the painting have been at the Hermitage ever since. This is the first time since the 18th century that the collection has return for a special show in England. http://www.houghtonhall.com

There is also lots of theatre and at this time Christmas shopping with beautiful window displays. I went to visit Liberty the great department store for the first time, I had never been there, the building alone is a marvel of wood timber construction.

 Liberty department store on Great Marlborough street, London

inside the store all timber framed

We managed to have dinner in two wonderful restaurants, one was ZEDEL Brasserie http://www.brasseriezedel.com in the former Regent Palace Hotel at 20 Sherwood street by Piccadilly Circus. The public rooms have been restored as they were when the hotel first opened in 1900, it is a very faithful restoration based on notes and photographs of the public rooms, lots of gold leaf, marble and beautiful wood paneling. The Regent Palace hotel is gone the rest of the building is use for offices.

The other was a wonderful fish and seafood restaurant which opened in 1896, J. Sheekey on Saint-Martin's Court, near Leicester Square, www.j-sheekey.co.uk . This was a suggestion by our friend David N. who always has nice suggestions to make when we come through London. He and J. are in the know when it comes to exhibits, plays, opera or whatever is of interest, their suggestions are the best.  The Oyster bar is very elegant with a wonderful menu and great wine list and the other room is the restaurant proper with a different menu. The fish is probably the best in London without a doubt according to critics. 

 J.Sheekey Restaurant 

J.Sheekey Oyster Bar

 Zedel Entrance hall 

Zedel Brasserie 

We also saw a play at the Theatre Royal Haymarket, One man two govners by Richard Bean,     based on a the play of Carlo Goldoni, hilarious, crude, rude and highly entertaining vaudeville. The music by Grant Olding, the title role was played by Owain Arthur, who was excellent in this role.

I have not laughed this hard in a long time, there is some audience participation in the play and I am amazed to see how people are very willing to laugh hard at other people's embarrassing moments, you laugh because better them than me on stage. 

The story is very simple but the rendition makes it all the more entertaining, quite a few good lines. In this version the play is set in Brighton and it's 1963. The principal role of the play is Arlechino or Francis is this case, not too smart and easily confused but he knows how to take advantage of any situation while trying to serve two masters.

What I did notice is how in Canada we are dying of Political Correctness, at the theatre they will warn you in advance by way of a poster that what you are about to see has smoking, bad language, nudity and whatever. In London, you are an adult, you made a choice and you are respected for that, the play we saw had, bad language, crude remarks, smoking, no warning, you know what you are going to see since you bought a ticket and read the synopsis. No member of the public died as a result. Looking at the program, I saw an advert for another play by the National Theatre and the warning at the bottom said; Bad language, lots of bling and a fake tan, I think we should tried that approach with the Ottawa crowd.

During the play, the characters make predictions of what will happen one day, say in 20 years time (1983), one character says I predict that Britain will have a women PM and we will have no more wars and a caring and just society where the poor will not be forgotten, a reference to Margaret Thatcher who despite being a women did not turn out to be much different from previous male PM.  Putting the lie to all that Feminist propaganda which did not turn out to be true.

London remains a fascinating city, it is full of energy and I found it to be much cleaner than Paris who has a sorry look these days. We came out of the theatre at 10pm to find the streets hoping with crowds of people, bars and restaurants are full, very often in the case of Pubs spilling out unto the streets where you can see dozens of people having a drink. Another line from the show is about Pubs, we forget that Pubs only sold drinks and chips until very recently. In the play the character learns that the Pub around the corner is now a ''Pub serving Food'' He says ''Think of that a Pub with Food what a novel idea''.  

The subway is crowded, main subway station shops are open until midnight, serving food and drinks. There is lots of trafic and people on the streets, not bad for a Tuesday night.

Shopping is always a pleasure, so many nice things on display and so much choice, products you do not necessarily find in Canada. I also love Heathrow Airport though it seems to be in a perpetual state of construction. I cannot remember once in the last 35 years that I have been through Heathrow that something is not under construction.

What I really like about the Airport is the Duty Free Shopping, real bargains and so many products. This time around found a Single Malt Scotch which is not available in stores, they have tasting stations to entice you to buy and sales people who promote products and can talk about it. I also got some of my favourite shower soap Molton Brown, a bottle of Moët & Chandon Champagne 2004 Grande Cuvée and a beautiful Plum Pudding for Xmas. They also have many beautiful shops like BULGARI and Hermes. Many restaurants and bars for a varied clientele, not everyone wants a packaged sandwich.  One bar serves a selection of Caviar, smoke salmon and Champagne just the sort of picker-upper you need before a flight. It is very different from any other airport I have been through in all my years, Heathrow has that special something, it's not just Starbucks or tacky souvenirs. Everything is there to entice you to buy a luxury item.

 Talisker Dark Storm Scotch not available in stores.

 Vintage 2004 a very good year

 A favourite soap of mine Molton Brown

For our Xmas dinner

We also discovered another way to get to the airport. We were going to use the Express Train from Paddinton Station but then our friend C. suggested we take this Limousine service called London Airport Cars, it is cheaper than the train and just as fast. We saved, being two persons, 30 Pounds, nothing to sneeze at and we did not have to carry our luggage, we had too much luggage for this 23 day trip. http://www.londonairportcar.co.uk

The weather in London was very nice, we were expecting rain, this according to the weather map but I have learned with time that London being close to the sea, the weather changes very quickly, sometime surprinsingly so, when we arrived in late afternoon, the sky was gray, then the next morning beautiful sunshine and blue sky though with a cold wind. Before our departure again cloudy and gray but by the time we got to Heathrow around 11am, it was sunshine and blue sky. As we took off we flew over Windsor Castle and got a good look at the park and Castle. 

So this is how our 35 Anniversary celebration trip ends. Very memorable what shall we do for our 40th?

Eurostar Train from Paris to London

Arrival at Gare d'Austerlitz, Paris

We arrived on time in Paris on our train-hotel after a bumpy night, the rails in Spain are not what they could be, the rails are much better on the French side of the border making for smoother ride. Train-hotels are designed for Europeans in mind, it's practical travel, This type of train is now being replaced slowly by the new High Speed Trains who can do the same trip in half the time. From the Gare d'Austerlitz we took a taxi to the Gare du Nord which is on the other side of the city, you have to cross the Seine River to get to it, with luggage it was an 18 Euro ride in light traffic.

Gare du Nord is a huge rail station in a less fashionable neighbourhood of Paris, the EuroStar Train leaves on the hour in a specially designed area of the old Station. It has it's own entrance and Duty Free Shopping given that London is considered an International Destination. We took the elevator to the Second floor and went through check-in, tickets and passports in hand, then a first passport check by agents who are there to detect any false documents, then UK Immigration for passport inspection as you are leaving the Shengen Zone and finally X-ray baggage inspection by French Custom, done for security only. This is a high speed train and we are flying towards the tunnel and the crossing of the English Channel, which takes about 25 minutes. At each departure the EuroStar is full, a very convinient way to go to the UK from Paris, far more convinient than the plane since you arrive at St-Pancras Station in Central London.

Once in the departure zone, you cannot leave it, there are two coffee shops, and about 5 Duty Free shops and a currency exchange desk, (Euros to Pounds) but nothing else. The departure zone is not very clean and given it is heavely used all day by thousands of passenger, it seems that better or more thorough cleaning should be the rule. The public washrooms (despite the fact that we are in France) are not clean at all, you go if you really have too. The seating area is also not very clean and I was surprised given that the EuroStar is a private concern you would think they would be a little more concerned with image, but it does not appear to be the case.

Boarding is done 30 minutes before departure and it is well organized by car number and fairly fast.

You can if you want reserve a seat in the Quiet Section of the train, 5 cars are so designated, meaning NO kids and NO cel phones. There is also a Business Class for people who wish to work or talk quietly, two cars are Bar Cars.

Some 85 minutes after our departure from Paris we reached Calais where the EuroStar entered the Tunnel and 20 minutes later we were out on the otherside in England. Some interesting stats on this journey, it is 20 Km from Calais to Ashford across the Channel, the train travels at about 300 Km per hour, the chunnel is 195 meters below sea level, the lenght of a tunnel is 50.4 km, there are 3 tunnels one for passenger trains, one for service or emergency and one for trucks and cars being transported across on a freight train. Total time of the trip from la Gare du Nord is 2hrs and 35 minutes, that is a lot faster than taking a plane and going to airports. 

The St-Pancras Station has been totally redesigned and expanded but has retained all of its architectural beauty. London is a bit cold tonight and cloudy but otherwise fine.

The Apes have a penchant for handbags.

Gibraltar, Jebel Tarik

Depending on your pronounciation in Arabic, the word Gibraltar comes from the Arabic word Jebel or Gibel for mountain and Tarek or Tarik the name of the Moorish commander who took over the area in 711, Gibel al Tarik. So there you have it Gib-ral-tar, a corruption of the Arabic pronounciation. In 1462 Gibraltar became Spanish and it remained thus until 1704.

The rock (limestone) of Gibraltar

The Port, bottom the new town and at top Spain, so you have too ports, one on the UK side of the bay and one on the Spanish side. Enough work for all really.

Mons Abyla the other Pilar of Hercules in Morocco, North Africa 

The British took over this most Southern point of Europe to make a strategic and political point with France who was then a very powerful Nation in Europe expanding quickly under the command of the Sun King. The throne of Spain had become vacant and Louis XIV had the idea that he would install a Bourbon Cousin to help him secure even more political and military control over Europe. The Bourbon of France had cousins South of the Border in Spain, the Spanish Branch, known as the Bourbon y Bourbon, they rule Spain to this day. The English did not want anymore French expansion and the Dutch had their own troubles with Louis XIV and for those of you who read the Memoirs of the Duc de Saint-Simon you get all the details, the Prince of Orange had loss several possessions to the Sun King. It was time to get even.

So Britain and Holland decided to support Catholic Austria in the War of the Spanish Succession. But all these dynastic complications and fights between Royal Cousins on who rules where is very unseemly. Catholic Austria had other ideas they too had a candidate and they wanted to install on the throne one of theirs, all for political reasons. By the way the dispute is not over yet, it still goes on to this day, the last chapter was fought in 1975 between the current King Juan Carlos I and his cousins, he won out being a better politician, he courted the dying General Franco and his elderly wife making all manners of promises he had no intention of keeping.

England and Holland united against France, of course they would, they too are cousins, the House of Orange at the time to support the Austrian position against France. So the British arrived at Gibraltar in 1704 and in 1713 at the end of the war in the Treaty of Utrecht, ( a city in Holland) Britain got the prize, to this day Spain is trying to get them off the rock.

Gibraltar is 1400 feet in height, surrounded by wild countryside. The Romans believed that Mons Calpe, which is one of the Pilars of Hercule on the European side and Mons Abyla is the other Pilar on the African side (only 25 Km of water separate the two), well the old Romans never crossed the straight, they firmly believed that it was the border of the end of the World, if a ship crossed it, said ship would fall off the face of the Earth. This belief by the way, endured until the Renaissance when it was demonstrated in the face of much resistance by the Roman Catholic Church that the Earth was not flat but round. We crossed the line connecting the Mediterranean and the Atlantic Ocean and yes I can tell you the world is round.

The entrance to the Atlantic Ocean.

In this visit to Gibraltar I also learned that the rock is connected to the mainland Spain by an outcropping which is the British RAF airport, the main runway is crossed my a main road bringing people in by car and bus from the Spanish-UK border. I have never seen anything quite like it and I do not know how they manage to land planes which obviously have to cross this car trafic laden road. Someone pointed out that there is a Stop sign, so cars should stop when you see a plane landing to let it pass, how quaint.

Gibraltar is much more than a British Military base, it is a town of 30,000 people who are in part of British stock mixed in with Spaniards who lived there prior to 1704 and Genoan Italians who came to Gibraltar in 1704 as contractors, they had been employed in repairing and maintaining in Genoa, British Navy Ships. They followed with their families the Royal Navy to Gibraltar.

The Ottawa sign in one of the many tunnels dug by Canadian Engineers from 1941-43

To this day there is an Italian neighbourhood called Caleta, quite lovely with a nice beach. There is also a Muslim population, a Jewish population many coming from Morocco. Strangely enough there are 7 Roman Catholic Churches, including a Cathedral, 4 Synagogues, 3 Mosques and a number of Anglican and Presbyterian churches, including an Anglican Cathedral, a Garrison Church, a Royal Chapel for the

British Governor, all this for 30,000 people.

The Governor's Palace is located in an old Franciscan Convent dating to 1531 which was taken over by the British, quite lovely. It is also developing rapidly into a tourist mecca, with 9 million visitors last year, a brand new airport terminal just opened. Some 120,000 ship call in yearly for re-supplying, water, fuel, food, cargo and medical supplies and now ship building and repair. More and more cruise ship stop for a day. Every ship crossing from the Mediterranean into the Atlantic has to stop here. So the 3 pillars of the economy is Tourism, Financial Services and Shipping.

There is no unemployment in Gibraltar and some 10,000 Spaniards cross the border at the airport runway each day to come and work here. A massive tunnel under the rock called the multi-billion British Pound project is under way and should be completed next year, allowing for a boom in tourism expansion, hotels, condos and residential villages.

Real estate prices we saw look a lot like those in London. All the rubble from the excavation is being used to create more landfill on the sea to expand the territory of Gibraltar. In other words the economy here is booming.

An historical fact, during the Second World War the entire civilian population was evacuated to Madeira, London, Ulster, Jamaica and Canada. A garrison of 16500 British and other Commonwealth Countries came to live in the rock itself digging 36 Km of tunnels. Gibraltar the rock is like Swiss cheese, an amazing feat, men lived there in what was a complete town with shops and dining halls, sleeping quarters, hospitals, warehouses and battle stations. Much of the tunnels from that period were dug by Canadian Engineers between 1941-43. The British have been tunneling the rock since 1782 for various military projects. The British Navy sailed from Gibraltar with Admiral Nelson for the battle of Trafalgar.

We also discovered that the Town is a DUTY FREE port, this is real duty free, the prices are so low it is a bargain, premium single malt scotch for $12. dollars a bottle, never seen that anywhere. Same for cigarettes $25 dollars a carton, high brand of perfumes and all manner of luxury products at very low prices. They accept every credit card, dollars, euros and Pounds of course. It does have the feel of the old British colony, a bit like Bermuda or even Hong Kong prior to 1997. We met with an old Gent in front of the Governor's Palace, we were admiring the shiny polish on the copper cannons, he asked us where we were from and we said Canada, ah he says, the First Dominion, how nice of him to say so.

Whose got fleas?

Will and Sidd at Europa Point with the Rock behind them.

I could not conclude a post on Gibraltar without talking of the famous monkeys of the rock who have been there since 711, they initially came as pets of the invading Moors and got left behind when the Moors decamped a few years later. They have done well for themselves. The Barbary Macacs roam the upper reaches of the rock, there are 86 of them living in families as an organized social group. They are fed 5 times a day by the British soldiers and visited by a Veterinarian twice daily to ensure perfect health, there is also a special wing of the Vet Hospital dedicated to their care. Why all this pampering, well it was Winston Churchill who said if the apes ever disappeared from Gibraltar the rock would have to be surrendered to Spain. Needless to say the UK Government does not want that to happen and extraordinary care is taken with these creatures. They are wild and unpredictable, we were repeatedly told NOT to feed them, NOT to touch them, Not to stare at them and Not grin or show our teeth as they might take offence. They are not big apes but the big males are the size of a human child aged 8. So that is fairly big and can inflict pain if provoked. Mothers can be vicious if they think their babies are endangered by us humans. We stopped and our group of about 25 people watched them, they took a little interest in us but mostly just walked around us. They did jump on our mini-bus but mostly to get a reaction out of us humans. They did not try to snatch glasses or handbags this can happen. Our tour guide did get too smaller apes on his shoulders they wanted to groom him. They left him alone after a few minutes. In all it was a fun encounter.

There is a lot to see and do in Gibraltar for such a small place and I only wish we had had more time to explore 2 days would have been good. Unfortunately we only had 4 hours, oh well, we will have to return.

The lighthouse at Europa Point, the most southern point of Europe facing the African continent.

Official song of this Blog.

Thanks to Ella Fitzgerald and this 1941 song, The Muffin Man, Larry Muffin at Home now has an official theme song.

A happy little song which I am glad to associate with my blog. Heard it on the radio the other day on one of those international Jazz radio stations, I think was broadcasting from France.

The Muffin Man lives in Drury Lane, that would be the Covent Garden neighbourhood in the West End of London.

Wisdom on 31 December 2012

Here is a message from my friend C.P. this morning, words of wisdom on my entering a new phase of life in retirement. Thank you C.P.

To invent the life you want to have rather than the life someone says you must have. It takes time.

And on this note here is the year in photos, not a bad year at all, lots of travelling in Europe throughout the year and then retirement, with photos of the actual site where the decision was made.

The first month of the year was the usual blah, mild winter and not much happening, work was not that interesting and by March I decided it was time to return to Rome and consulted friends to see what was going on in the Eternal City.

The two domes of the Churches in Piazza del Popolo as seen from the Belvedere of Villa Borghese.

I also had my birthday in Rome with friends at a lovely luncheon in Capena just a few minutes outside the Città.

Cake was Linda's creation and it is not on fire.

Because March is Artichoke season, she also made Stuffed Artichoke Roman Style. A favourite of mine.

Now I did walk a lot in Rome, something I truly enjoy doing, the City is built like a theatre set and anywhere you look there is always something to attract your eyes.

Looking down this street that morning in March I was just waiting around for Nancy de C. to start one of her private tours of the Convent at Trinita dei Monti, top of the Spanish stairs. So I was just looking down the street, Via Sistina, this would be around 9:55 am and if you look all the way you can see at the other end the steeple of Santa Maria Maggiore. The street changes names twice before you arrive at the other end, to Via Quattro Fontane and then to Via Agostino DePretis. It was busy that morning like all morning in Rome are and I do not know why, but a little voice told me, you know retiring would not be such a bad thing after all, you had a wonderful career. Rome and it's sunlight can inspire.
That is when I decided that I would retire by year end.

Vincent Lam in Ottawa at Fraser Café at the launch of his bestseller book, The Headmaster's Wager. During the Ottawa Writers Festival. A wonderful book to read. Vincent is a writer but also a E.R. doctor at Toronto.

In early May we had the annual Tulip Festival in commemoration of the Royal Family of the Netherlands who spent the Second World War in Ottawa. Carpets of  tulips everywhere in city parks can be seen, beautiful.

Nicholas and Nora in the morning after breakfast, a little snooze.

Of course this year was the 60th anniversary of the accession of Queen Elizabeth II. The Diamond Jubilee was celebrated in June in Canada.

Then in June we went on our cruise with AZAMARA from Amsterdam to Hamburg to Copenhagen, to the Island of Ronen and on to Helsinki, St-Petersburg and Tallinn finally arriving in Stockholm.

From Kevin M. apartment and B&B beautiful view. We also met M.J. in Amsterdam.

Before coffee in the morning in a lovely café just down the street from our B& B.

Copenhagen Palace Square in the morning.

We then sailed to a small island of Ronen to see smoke houses where fish is smoked like herring. It is very fresh and delicious with a glass of wine.

 A very traditional method of preparing and preserving fish and it was very interesting to see. Such a lovely small island, very green, a beautiful picture of Scandinavia.

 We then sailed on to Helsinki, a beautiful small Capital, friendly people and wonderful pastries.
The excitement was building as we were now approaching Imperial St-Petersburg the city built by Peter the Great, what a jewel and thanks to massive renovations by Vladimir Putin, the city once again shines on the Baltic.

Here we are across from the Winter Palace by the Sphinx on University Embankment. If you touch the Sphinx you are likely to return to St-Petersburg. I wish we could have stayed at least one more day, two days was simply not enough for this magnificent city.

Our last stop was Stockholm, which for Will meant going to Drottningholm (Queen's Palace) to see the famous 17th century theatre. He waited almost all his life to see it and I had heard of it for the last 35 years, so the expectation was great. We were not disappointed, it was magical, to be able to step back in this perfectly preserved small theatre.

My favourite photo of 2012, Will at the entrance to the Royal Park, he was so excited, like a little kid.
Of course Sydd appears in the photo, he accompanied us throughout the trip.

 Talk of green environment in Stockholm Harbour.

But this was not all for my travelling, in the Fall I went for a few days to London to see friends. Wonderful visit and how nice to see the City with a lot less tourists. Staying with C. in the Marylebone area near Selfridge's on Baker street.

 The West facade of St-Paul's Convent Garden, Market area, known as the Actor's Church built by Inigo Jones in 1633. A beautiful Church well worth a visit.

How many times in my career, Will and I said this, so true and it continues to be.

December, the first snow in Ottawa. We have had so far more snow in December 2012 than in the entire winter of 2011. It promises.

On the 29 December, the retirement party with a few friends at home.

and the year ends, on with the new......

It's -22 C. on this photo, Happy New Year to All!