Showing posts with label Scandinavia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Scandinavia. Show all posts

Friday, 22 June 2012

Stockholm, Sweden

The Captain of our ship told us that we if got up early around 6 am we could experience sailing into Stockholm. From the open sea it took us 2 hours at a speed of 16 knots to reach the port of the City.
All along the way I thought it all looked a lot like the Muskokas in Ontario. Rocky islands, pine trees, inlets here and there, very scenic.  There are hundreds of islands as you make your way to the city port.

The one problem we encountered here was the ATM machines at various banks, they do not appear to work with the CIRRUS system, we checked with the banks and our bank but there was no problem with our cards. We did notice that in general people do not appear to use much cash here, debit and credit cards are use for all purchases small and large. So in the end it worked out fine. Funny thing, you get a receipt for everything in Sweden, it does not matter what you purchase, even for the smallest items.
dining room aboard the little steam ship where we had lunch on our way to Drottningholm
steamship MS Carl Philip built in 1901.

I also did not find Stockholm all that expensive, many items are the same price as Ottawa. We bought a bouquet of flowers and for the quantity and quality of the flowers it was somewhat cheaper than Ottawa. Coffee, sandwiches, desserts, all the same price. Taxi rides about the same for the distance, no surprises there. Hotels are definitely more expensive by about 50% but again we are here at the height of a major 4 day holiday and all hotels are booked solid in town. Lunch and dinner in restaurants about the same as Ottawa. So all in all, I cannot say it is more expensive, it may just appear that way. I checked hotel room prices for off season and it runs around 140$ CDN for a couple with breakfast, compared to Canada its very good value.  Our hotel Kung Carl is very central in a fashionable sector of Stockholm, we walked everywhere. The Hotel breakfast was generous and good, the coffee was excellent. 
City Hall of Stockholm with the monument to the founder of the City Birger Jarl.

We did walk a lot and Stockholm is a city for walkers and bikers, excellent public transport, very clean civilized city. Almost everyone speaks English, you are not expected to speak Swedish. I also heard German and French. The people we encountered are pleasant, lots of smiles and easy going. But this was also true in Finland, Denmark and Holland.
You can also take boats to all the islands forming the city, there are about 20 in all. You have the Hop on and Hop off bus and also the boat. There are lots of old steamers which offer a nice ride into lake Maleren with a beautiful lunch on board, linen, porcelain and all.
The Summer Palace of the Royal Family of Sweden at Drottningholm.

 The Court theatre of 1764 on the Palace grounds.

We took one steamer to go to Drottningholm Palace about one hour away from the city centre, it was a beautiful ride up the lake and we had a very good lunch on board. Will finally got to see the famous Court Theatre built in 1764 it remains the only authentic 18th century theatre in Europe with all the original machinery, never modernized. What happened was that in 1809 the theatre was closed after the assassination of King Gustav III and then forgotten, since it was on the grounds of a Royal Palace no one had access and like sleeping beauty it just slept. In 1926 by accident someone came to visit the little theatre while doing research work on a famous painting which was supposedly hanging in the theatre. It was at this moment that this researcher found all the machinery and scenery, decor stored away as it was in 1809, preserved in time. It is truly a gem, visiting this theatre is stepping back in time, everything is exactly as it was. It is a marvel to look at, you cannot believe your eyes. All the original wallpaper is hanging on the walls still, hand painted and as was then the fashion nailed to the walls. The original furniture, even musical instruments are there. The masterpiece is the machinery to operate the changes in decor which still works perfectly today and the painted scenery which can be changed in a matter of seconds thanks to the machines all operated by hand. You need 46 persons to make it all work. Our guide told us that the workers lived, slept and ate in the theatre with their wifes and kids, everyone was housed in a communal fashion. The kids often worked as stage hands, and the King provided lunch as part of your salary. The great stars lived on stage, not only they performed on stage but also slept and had their change rooms etc all on stage. Not much privacy but again it was a different time and concepts such as privacy and space were not what they are today. Beds were folded and a privacy screen was your wall to separate you from others.

The auditorium is small and nothing is as it appears. The walls are wood covered with plaster and painted to look like marble, the boxes are made of papier mache. There are two boxes for single men who are at the front of the auditorium so they could be seen by the audience and maybe find a party. Two royal boxes in the middle and two privacy box for people who wanted to attend a show but not be seen. The lighting is all candle with a metal reflector to amplify the light. The public sat on plain wood benches and tables were provided so that you could have something to eat and drink during performances. Going to the theatre back then was part socializing and part looking at the show. Ladies used their fans to send signals to the available men or to flirt and it was not unheard of that maybe they would have a meeting in a dark corner or in a box.

If the King attended, he and his wife were provided with special chairs to indicate rank. The theatre is still used today in the summer, capacity is about 134 persons. The acoustics are great and modern artists have to moderate their voices otherwise they will sound to loud. This summer they are presenting Handel's, Orlando and Cavalli's, Jason and Medea.

The great thing about this visit was the Will got to see the theatre and operate the wind machine backstage, a privilege really granted by our guide who was impressed that he had waited 60 years to see the Court Theatre. Will was so happy, it made his day and I was happy for him that finally he had realized this dream and I could be with him on that day.






Friday, 15 June 2012

Helsinki, Finland

 
We arrived this morning early in Helsinki the Capital of Finland. A city on the water surrounded by small rocky islands. It is a very green city, with classical architecture. Finland became independent from Russia in 1917. A country with a population of 5.3 million people in a vast northern territory.
Presidential Palace once prior to 1917 was the residence of Tsar Nicholas II.

We are stopped here for a few hours, we took the opportunity to visit the downtown core with its Lutheran and Russian Orthodox Cathedrals, the Presidential Palace, the Central bank building and Parliament all located within a few blocks of each other. The market area is just off the docks where all the cruise ships arrive. We made a few purchases, tempted to buy vacuum packed smoked ell and herring for our friends back home as gifts, an unusual sort of gift.
Russian Orthodox Cathedral

Helsinki appears as a quiet city, it has in its architecture, the look of Russian classic city planning of the late 19 or early 20th century. Our stay is too short to give us a better appreciation for it all but I am happy to say we came and were able to walk around on a sunny day.
Parliament of Finland
Fountain on the Esplanade, Lady and the Seals.
Helpful sign on the dock.

Tomorrow is the highlight of this cruise St-Petersburg, Russia. The old Imperial Capital of Russia in the happy days prior to 1917. Much restored since 2001 for the greater enjoyment of visitors. 
Harbor of Helsinki.

Thursday, 14 June 2012

Bornholm Island, Denmark

 
We arrived in the morning early at the town of Ronne on the island of Bornholm which is located on the North East point of Denmark, close to the coast of Sweden. Population of this island around 40,000 people and diminishing. The main industry in the summer is tourism and smoked herring. It is very green, it has nice Danish houses and stone churches. We visited a Smoke House in Hasle and ate herring with a glass of beer. It was good as a snack but not something I would make into a meal, though it is a good source of protein. We then proceeded to Jorn or George the butcher who lives on a farm in a lovely country setting, the farm buildings date back to 1500. We sampled some excellent meats, a real delight. Visited the production line and saw how meats where cured or smoked, an interesting process. 
Fish smoke house on Bornholm
Smoked Herring
Jorn the Butcher in his shop.
We walked in the village of Gudhjem (godhouse) full of half timbered buildings painted in yellow and orange, very typical of this part of Denmark.
15th century farm house on Bornholm
a typical house in Gudhjem
Danish flag

I can see why Bornholm is a nice summer retreat and a pleasant holiday destination for Danes. Tonight we sail for Helsinki, Finland and this will take us a day and a half to get there at the other end of the Baltic. So I am spending my day at the SPA.

Copenhagen, Denmark

After passing the Kiel canal we arrived at Copenhagen for a day of sightseeing. Both Will and I know the city, we have been here before. For Will it is a return trip after 40 years and for me after 12 years.
Copenhagen remains a beautiful city with nice people.

Our ship the Azamara Journey docked just in front of the St-Albans Anglican Church by the Kastellet Citadel fortress just a few steps away from the Royal Palace Amalienborg. This year 2012 Queen Margaret II celebrates her 40th anniversary as Sovereign of Denmark. Next to our ship was the Royal Yacht, very elegant looking.

We went into St-Albans because Will had been there some 40 years ago and a former priest from his parish in Toronto had worked there around 1966. St-Albans is a Royal Chapel it was founded by H.R.H. Alexandra,Princess of Denmark and Queen of England, wife of Edward VII who was the son of Queen Victoria. Royalty has endowed this church and several famous Kings and Emperor have visited. It his the church of the British embassy and community in Copenhagen.

It is a small church celebrating 125 years of service and has beautiful stained glass windows by Boure-Jones who glow in the brilliant morning sun.

Then we walked to the Royal Palace Amalienborg and saw the changing of the guard. Palace guards here are not shy about shooing nosy tourists away, you do not want to tease them. We also visited the Marble church or Frederick Church which is the State Church of Denmark, (Evangelical Lutheran). Then we went to a lovely little cafe for coffee and proceeded to visit some shops, Royal Copenhagen and Illum Bolighus and made some little purchases. Our lunch was typical Danish fare, a Tuborg beer and 3 open face sandwiches on dark rye bread, one being Herring with capers, egg with tomato and one of pate.

Its a beautiful day, brilliant sunshine, clear blue skies, we had been promised rain, rain, rain since last week but so far we have been lucky, the rain comes during the night or when we are driving somewhere.

In the evening we went to Tivoli to see the famous Chinese Peacock theatre and for dinner.
 
We saw an 18th century Pantomime at the Chinese Peacock Theatre at Tivoli Garden, one of the world more famous amusement park. It is said that Walt Disney found his inspiration for Disneyland while visiting Tivoli. I did not know what to expect, what I saw was a beautiful garden along the lines of a botanical garden with top restaurants set in the garden, a lake, a midway with old fashion rides, a band stand with a full orchestra doing light classics and the Chinese Peacock Theatre. Tivoli was built in 1844 and remains to this day a private company. The garden attracts young and old, many of the customers in the evening are elderly, strolling in the garden and enjoying one of the many music shows or the pantomime. Restaurants offer many different kinds of cuisines and classic Danish cuisine.
We went to Faergekroen Bryghus for dinner after the theatre and had wonderful food, lobster cream soup with big chucks of lobster, Veal steak with different types of onions quickly pan fried and boiled potatoes and for dessert Rodgrod Med Flode which is a typical Danish dessert, essentially described as a porridge of berries with cream, it is more like a thick berry soup. Delicious but the name of the dessert is unpronounceable because all the pronunciation comes from the throat.

Tivoli is beautiful, clean and peaceful, a real delight in a busy city. Will waited 40 years to see the Chinese Peacock Theatre which is a marvel in itself.



Sunday, 27 May 2012

Sarabande

I love the montage accompanying this piece of music. Musicians, paint, canvas, it all goes well together.
This is the Sarabande movement of the Holberg Suite by Grieg.
A few days ago I uploaded the Prélude played by the same orchestra.



Hope you all have a beautiful Pentecost Sunday.