Showing posts with label Austria. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Austria. Show all posts

Friday, 11 July 2014

The Lake District around Salzburg, the Salzkammergut.

Salzburg is located minutes by train from the German Border and surrounded by mountains, forests and lakes, the area is know as the Salzkammergut.  Truly idillic for a vacation, there is always something to do. The region around Salzburg is known for Alpine style skiing but is also geared towards hiking, walking, swimming or sailing. The beautiful fresh water lakes are pristine.

It is also a region of Salt Mines, ''Salz'' and this has made the region economically wealthy.
http://www.salzkammergut.at/en

On our day excursion from Salzburg we visited St-Wolfgang, St-Gilgen, Strobl, Fuschl am See, Mondsee, all small picturesque villages. The lakes are very quiet areas with small sail boats, beaches and on the bigger lakes a paddle wheel steam boat used as a bus system to bring people from one village to the other. There is also the Imperial Spa of Bad Ischl made famous by its clients who would travel in the summer from Vienna, members of the Imperial Court and the Kaiser Franz Josef and Empress Elizabeth came each year, in typical Austrian style it has retained that atmosphere. You can see the room where the Emperor wrote the famous ''To my citizens'' letter announcing the start of the First World War in August 1914.

Bad Ischl Imperial Villa


The Church in St-Wolfgang is ancient and has beautiful Altar piece and stained glass windows. St-Gilgen is the village of the mother of W.A. Mozart. The church of Mondsee is featured in the marriage scene of the infamous movie The Sound of Music.

I would have loved to spend more time walking around the area and maybe even staying for a few days. It is a nature lover area for quiet recreation.

St-Gilgen 


 Mond See (Moon Lake)



Village of St-Wolfgang 



Interior of the Church of St-Wolfgang main Altar piece by Michael Pacher, 1479.
Representing the Coronation of the Virgin Mary and the Life of Christ and scenes of the life of St Wolfgang.
Carved, painted and gilded Pine Wood.  






Friday, 27 June 2014

28 June 1914 a fateful day.

The 28 June marks the Centennial of the assassination in Sarajevo of Archduke Franz Ferdinand and his wife Sophie. A fateful day and one that will shape much of what will happen in the XXth Century.

The Great War would start on August 1 and would transform the world. Canada's contribution was great and should be remembered, 10% of the population went to war (620,000) of that number 10% were killed. Many returned badly wounded to a Canada transformed by the war. New measures also such as Personal Income Tax, women voting, a move from a rural to an urban setting, industrialisation, social change in the work place, workers riots in Winnipeg and elsewhere and the harsh response of the Conservative Government of Robert Borden and Arthur Meighen.

The Great War would bring the fall of 4 Empires and would create more economic and social problems which would lead just 20 years later to the Second World War. What is also known today is that no one actually lost the war, it became clear at the end of 1917 to all involved that the war was un-winable. An armistice on 11 November 1918 was declared, it was the allies at the Peace Conference in 1919 who declared that Germany was guilty and France sought and got harsh terms in the Treaty of Versailles. European leaders in my view are all guilty in this case given that many were sleeping at the wheel and did not realize the danger of a World War.








This exhibit is currently on at the Canadian War Museum until 21 September 2014

Wednesday, 25 June 2014

Oompah Bands in Salzburg

Many traditions thrive in Salzburg, the region became rich because of the Salt Mines, Salzburg, salt mountain and Salzach river, Salt river, many references to salt and you can visit the salt mines in the lake district around Salzburg. There are a lot of attractions, hiking in the mountains, camping around the lake district, fishing etc.. It is not all music festival.


Here are some photos of the Pentecost Parade each year on Saturday at 11am where the different parishes congregate in the centre of Old Salzburg and march across the Staatsbrucke.

All in traditional costumes, bands and parish flags, very colourful and lots of fun to watch.

Here we are Will and I at the parade in our traditional costume. Love those hats.










The riders crack their whips 


Dult sponsors the parade and gives out beer to the crowd, everyone loves a good parade. This beer is brewed in Altötting, Bavaria just across the border. Dult sponsors several beer festivals in October and in the summer time.

Musical program of the Salzburg Pfingstfestspiele 2014

I am not writing these entries in order at all, it is more as I recollect them in memory, so far I have spoken more about Dresden than Salzburg. So here I will return to the Festival which was the main reason of our trip to Europe this Spring.

As per years past we had a full program of music and this year the program prepared by musical director Cecilia Bartoli was dedicated to Rossini. Of my experience this year I most enjoyed the concert given by Joyce DiDonato who has a beautiful voice and clear diction. She was accompanied on the piano by David Zobel.

Her Liedmatinee program was dedicated to music about Venice. We heard her sing from Venice most famous son Vivaldi an aria from his opera Ercole su'l Termodonte (1723).  Then from Fauré, Cinq mélodies op 58 De Venise. Followed by Rossini, La Regata Veneziana. Schubert Gondelfahrer, Schumann Two Venetian Airs, Michael Head Three Songs of Venice, Reynaldo Hahn, Venezia, Songs in Venetian dialect.

The other concert I enjoyed was the Stabat Mater by Rossini and the Libera me of Verdi directed by Antonio Pappano with the orchestra and choir of the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia the Choirmaster is Ciro Visco. We often heard them in Rome and both the orchestra and choir are very good and always give a solid performance.  The soloists were Maria Agresta, Sonia Ganassi, Lawrence Brownlee and Erwin Schrott, who is quite the peacock on stage.

We then heard La Petite Messe Solennelle of Rossini with again Pappano and the choir and orchestra of Santa Cecilia. This time the soloists were Eva Mei, Vesselina Kasarova, Lawrence Brownlee and Michele Pertusi. I did not like Mei nor Kasarova, their voices simply did not suit this piece at all, I am not even sure in what language they were singing. It could have been Russian for all I knew.
This piece is sung in Latin and I enjoyed both Brownlee and Pertusi, strong and clear voices.

We also attended both operas La Cenerentola ossia la bonta in trionfo by Rossini and Othello by Rossini. In both cases I was confused and annoyed by what I saw.

The staging for La Cenerentola was modern, a dingy dinner run by the violent father of Cinderella also known as Angelina in this opera and the Palace of the Prince was a Disco. There was a lot of special effects like a car chase and a traffic accident, chairs which were all over the place, dancing furniture etc... All very distracting and annoying. I am told that Madame Bartoli loves Damiano Michieletto and Paolo Fantin as designers, both are very young 30 something. I just find their style distracting and somewhat childish.

The Choir of the Vienna State Opera under the direction of Jean-Christophe Spinosi which I dislike and his orchestre Ensemble Matheus. Spinosi is good at directing musician but when it comes to opera he cannot resist the temptation of burying the singers with loud music. You the listener loose in such a combination. He is young and brash, like those personalities you see on French Television Talk Shows where everyone is a smarter than the other guests and tries to prove it.

Cenerentola or Angelina was played by Cecilia Bartoli, the father Don Magnifico, Enzo Capuano,
Don Ramiro the Prince, Javier Camarena, Dandini the valet, Nicola Alaimo, Alidoro, Ugo Guagliardo, the ugly step-sisters Clorinda Lynette Tapia and Tisbe, Hilary Summers.

Again the female voices of Clorinda and Tisbe left a great deal to be desired, weak and incomprehensible.

As for Othello by Rossini the plot is different from the opera by Verdi. The plot is somewhat complicated by all that is not said and should be said by the actors. Hysteria, confusion reigns though out this opera and as one psychiatrist who also attends this Festival every year like us and who we have come to know through the years, Dr. M told us that he would have put the lot on tranquillizers because that is what they needed. Of course Rossini wrote this opera prior to the age of psychiatry.

There was no love between Desdemona and Othello, we learn because we are told so that they married secretly, really? Could have fooled me. Desdemona appears to be having an affair with her lady in waiting Emilia, this appears to be an idea of the designers.

The staging was very bad and frankly amateurish, Moshe Leiser and Patrice Caurier were the designers and we were treated to a Desdemona given to spraying graffiti in her bedroom walls, seaport bar run by Maghreb Arabs and an Othello in black face, yes it is still done in this day and age.
Why does Othello have to be black? He is a Moor and they are Arabs so there is no need for him to be black or in this case in black face a la Al Jolson. Iago is not very present in this opera version by Rossini, he is a bit character. Rodrigo is the other main character with Elmiro, cruel, racist and stupid. The characters appear more motivated by racism than jealousy, I had the impression that we were playing to modern stereotypes.

The orchestra Ensemble Matheus was directed by Jean-Christophe Spinosi, again not impressed.
Desdemona was played by Cecilia Bartoli, Othello by John Osborn, Rodrigo by Edgardo Rocha, Iago by Barry Banks, Elmiro by Peter Kalman.

As for the Gala organized by Madame Bartoli it was a complete washout, I am so glad we did not buy tickets to it. Many of the great names of opera did not appear, the program had to be improvised at the last minute and dinner was finally served at midnight instead of 21:30. What a mess.

So in conclusion this years Festival had its good points but there were also quite a few false notes and I was disappointed and question the capacity of Cecilia Bartoli to direct such a Festival. She seems to want to try to many things at once and the results are very uneven.

The great voices of this festival Joyce DiDonato, Javier Camarena, John Osborn, Lawrence Brownlee, Erwin Schrott, Michele Pertusi. Great conductor Antonio Pappano, great orchestra Accademia Santa Cecilia of Rome and Choir under Ciro Visco.

I did not put Cecilia Bartoli in the list above because I feel that though she has a wonderful voice it has become cold and mannered, there is a tendency to try to impress the listener with vocal tricks which though pleasant to hear sometime lacks the emotion required in a piece and adds nothing to what is being sung. Bartoli was wonderful last year in Norma but this year in Cenerentola and Othelo, I felt boh as we say in Italian.

Overall we had a good time, Salzburg is always beautiful and gemütlich the weather was hot and sunny.




  

Friday, 30 May 2014

Lederhosen Time







Allô Österreich, here we come. For the next 2 weeks I will take a blog vacation, I decided to not take my computer with me to Europe, one less thing to carry. You will have to exercise patience and wait for all the gossip and impressions of my travel for when I return.

Our traveling companion this time is Juan who is from Havana, Cuba and is related to a one arm Bartender who knew Hemingway. I do not ask questions, not polite.

Posing here with 2 must read books.

 Juan the Cuban Gnome


and our other traveling companion Otto says Auf Wiedersehen!





Salzburg Music Programme




Well on Sunday we fly to Europe. In Salzburg we will be at the Music Festival, Pfingstfestspeile this year the programme chosen by Festival Director Cecilia Bartoli is dominated by works of Gioachino Rossini. It is a bit like when we would travel from Rome to Pesaro on the Adriatic, Rossini's Birth place for the Annual August Festival of his works.

We will see the following; La Cenerentola by Rossini at the Haus für Mozart theatre.

Stabat Mater by Rossini at the Grosses Festspielhaus

Petite Messe Solennelle by Rossini at the Mozarteum Grosser Saal

Liedmatinee with Joyce DiDonato at the Mozarteum Grosser Saal, who will sing a program by various composers, Vivaldi, Fauré, Rossini, Schubert, Schumann, Head and Hahn.

and Otello by Rossini at the Grosses Festspeilhaus.

We also plan to visit the Lake district around Salzburg and maybe do a bit of shopping. Very much looking forward to this beautiful Festival.


Mozarteum Grosser Saal c. 1900

Haus für Mozart c.1960 seen from the stage area. One of the largest concert halls in Europe.


In front of the Festspeilhaus


Sunday, 29 December 2013

Endings and souvenirs of the past year

We travelled this year to Europe twice, once in May at Pentecost to the Salzburg Festival and then in November to Italy, Spain and England.
We were lucky weather wise, with lots of sunshine and only minimal bad weather.
In Canada we travelled to the theatre Festival at Stratford, Ontario and met with our new friends,
D and M of Phoenix.


Our old home but still our home


Me and our dear friend D. at dinner at friends on Via Tronto

The Christmas Italian Puppies
They will be 5 years old in February 2014. Strange to think that five years ago we were meeting them in Capena just outside Rome at the farm. 


Salzburg Festival, May 2013

Hellbrun Palace gardens outside Salzburg

Having a glass of bubbles at Café Bazar in Salzburg.


 Stratford street 


Donation by Will to the Stratford Theatre archive collection

Travelling with my own physician nowadays 

Will with Will in the background

Then when we renewed our lease here on McLeod street we decided to ask our landlord to replace the broadloom with hardwood, he agreed readily and it only took 3 days to do two rooms, very happy with the results.



In November our cruise on Azamara Quest from Rome to Seville, 23 days of pleasure in many lovely ports.


London street decorations for Christmas enjoyed the shopping and food. London has quite a few very good restaurants nowadays.


On 28 September by mother died after a 14 year battle with Alzheimer. 
A sad moment but for her it was a deliverance from a terrible disease which is little understood.

It was a very full year with many events.