Well in 30 days we will fly to Canada to resume our life in our home country, the four years in Italy were nothing short of wonderful, a very great opportunity. I was also fortunate to have Greece in my portfolio of responsibility, so I think this was a little like a double header in terms of the basis of Western Civilization, Rome and Athens.
We could not leave Italy without a visit to Ravenna which is located North East of Bologna, easy to get to by regional train, a bit of a milk run but the countryside is spectacular. Ravenna is heavy with history and a city of the Arts. Often bypassed by the hordes of tourists who descend on Firenze,Verona or Venice, it is not well known, but has so much to offer which is unique and is in many ways a key piece of the puzzle which is our western heritage. Ravenna makes a first entry into history with Julius Ceasar who will stop and assemble his army before crossing the Rubicon river to march on Rome. Under his nephew Octavian Augustus, Ravenna will become an important seaport as the seat of the Western Imperial Roman Navy. Ravenna back then was built on stilts and surrounded by water, a style immitated by Venice many centuries later. In the fourth century after Emperor Constantine abandons pagan Rome to establish a new imperial Capital with his new Christian religion, in his new city Constantinople, Ravenna will become the new Capital of the western part of the Roman Empire.
The Ravenna Festival brochure
Theodoric the king of the Ostrogoths (454-526 AD), has a young boy had been sent by his father to the Imperial Court in Constantinople and was educated there. He was what the Romans called a Romanized Barbarian. He ruled on behalf of the Emperor in this part of the Italian peninsula, Theodoric will launch a program of grandiose constructions, palaces and churches and great public buildings. The Bysantine style is present everywhere, as we see it today in Christian Orthodox churches, so different from the Roman Catholic style which copies Pagan Rome.
A wealth of opulence in rich mosaics decorating every wall telling Biblical stories mixed with ornate inlaid marble and mosaic floors. Even the windows are of alabaster panes giving the interior a majestic golden aura. One can imagine the religious services heavy with incense and music, conveying the feeling of Divine mystery. It is also interesting to note that Ravenna was also the scene of the evolution of the Christian Faith from early times. Theodoric and his Court where followers of Arius and his doctrine known as Arianism, their beliefs were one of many Christians beliefs of the early Church around the fourth and fifth Centuries. Different Christians groups had different experiences and understandings, such as in Egypt with the Copts or in Antioch or Jerusalem or in Constantinople or in this case Ravenna. For the Arians Christ has a human nature and his divinity is revealed only upon his baptism in the Jordan River. He walks from the West to the East. He is represented as a youth (no beard) and naked, just a young man, a bit pudgy almost a mama's boy.
in this mosaic we see Christ, St-John the Baptist and on the left the figure of the Jordan River in an old man.
The Emperor in Constantinople, needed to solidify political power through religion. This representation was not part of his official political program, Christ had to have a majestic aura as ruler of the world and the Arian beliefs was too humanistic, it clashed with what was to become official doctrine after the violent suppression of the Arian Cult. It is also interesting to note in the period before 700 AD it is the Emperor who is the head of the Christian religion and not the Bishop of Rome, who for many centuries will remain a bishop amongst many, again not the version the Holy See likes to spread around.
The three wise men, coming from the West and dressed like Barbarian chieftains bringing gifts to the baby Jesus and his mother. Mosaic church of St-Apollinare in Classe, Ravenna.
We also saw a very rare Easter Calendar indicating the days on which Easter would fall between 582 and 626 AD. I learned that Christian Easter was celebrated at the same time as the Jewish Passover until the Church at the Council of Nicea, some 325 years after Christ, decided that this could not be. It was important for political and religious orthodoxy within the young Christian Church to differentiate itself if it was to survive as a separate religion.
Not a painting but 5th century intricate mosaics decorate the cathedral of St-Vitale, Ravenna.
In Ravenna you also see that the so called barbarians are in fact trying very hard to integrate themselves into the easy life of the late Roman civilization. The barbarian chieftains wish to give their own people an easier life, a more settled life, with clean drinking water and easy access to food and other conveniences found in city life. The clash comes when the Romans refuse to allow them to migrate through their settlements or into their cities. The Roman legions are stretched and it is difficult to defend if not impossible to stop this human wave of migrants who descend upon the Italian peninsula. Eventually the Romans will have no choice but to accommodate the newcomers. This can be referred to as the fall of the western Roman Empire.
Ravenna, today is landlocked with a canal giving it access to the Adriatic, the great marsh lands were drained about 600 years ago and turned into rich agricultural land. But we could not be in Ravenna without visiting the tomb of the great Italian poet Dante and attending the opera. The summer festival in Ravenna offers many wonderful things, it is held jointly with other music festivals like Whitsun Festival in Salzburg and Madrid. We saw the opera I due Figaro by Saverio Mercadante a sequel to the Marriage of Figaro, the story picks up some 20 years later. It was presented at the Teatro Alighieri, under the direction of Riccardo Muti and the Orchestra Giovanile Luigi Cherubini with the choir of the Vienna Philarmonic.
The Teatro Alighieri
We also had some very good meals, it is difficult to eat badly in Italy, we found a little place called Bistrot just around the corner from our Hotel, see www.bistrotravenna.it. A very nice place, good food and good service, they catered to people suffering from Gluten intolerance, as many restaurants do in Italy. Our hotel the San Andrea was ideally located within walking distance of all the sights in Ravenna. See www.santandreahotel.com
Antipasto dish at Bistrot.
Am glad we went it was well worth the trip to see this beautiful ancient city.
We could not leave Italy without a visit to Ravenna which is located North East of Bologna, easy to get to by regional train, a bit of a milk run but the countryside is spectacular. Ravenna is heavy with history and a city of the Arts. Often bypassed by the hordes of tourists who descend on Firenze,Verona or Venice, it is not well known, but has so much to offer which is unique and is in many ways a key piece of the puzzle which is our western heritage. Ravenna makes a first entry into history with Julius Ceasar who will stop and assemble his army before crossing the Rubicon river to march on Rome. Under his nephew Octavian Augustus, Ravenna will become an important seaport as the seat of the Western Imperial Roman Navy. Ravenna back then was built on stilts and surrounded by water, a style immitated by Venice many centuries later. In the fourth century after Emperor Constantine abandons pagan Rome to establish a new imperial Capital with his new Christian religion, in his new city Constantinople, Ravenna will become the new Capital of the western part of the Roman Empire.
Theodoric the king of the Ostrogoths (454-526 AD), has a young boy had been sent by his father to the Imperial Court in Constantinople and was educated there. He was what the Romans called a Romanized Barbarian. He ruled on behalf of the Emperor in this part of the Italian peninsula, Theodoric will launch a program of grandiose constructions, palaces and churches and great public buildings. The Bysantine style is present everywhere, as we see it today in Christian Orthodox churches, so different from the Roman Catholic style which copies Pagan Rome.
A wealth of opulence in rich mosaics decorating every wall telling Biblical stories mixed with ornate inlaid marble and mosaic floors. Even the windows are of alabaster panes giving the interior a majestic golden aura. One can imagine the religious services heavy with incense and music, conveying the feeling of Divine mystery. It is also interesting to note that Ravenna was also the scene of the evolution of the Christian Faith from early times. Theodoric and his Court where followers of Arius and his doctrine known as Arianism, their beliefs were one of many Christians beliefs of the early Church around the fourth and fifth Centuries. Different Christians groups had different experiences and understandings, such as in Egypt with the Copts or in Antioch or Jerusalem or in Constantinople or in this case Ravenna. For the Arians Christ has a human nature and his divinity is revealed only upon his baptism in the Jordan River. He walks from the West to the East. He is represented as a youth (no beard) and naked, just a young man, a bit pudgy almost a mama's boy.
The Emperor in Constantinople, needed to solidify political power through religion. This representation was not part of his official political program, Christ had to have a majestic aura as ruler of the world and the Arian beliefs was too humanistic, it clashed with what was to become official doctrine after the violent suppression of the Arian Cult. It is also interesting to note in the period before 700 AD it is the Emperor who is the head of the Christian religion and not the Bishop of Rome, who for many centuries will remain a bishop amongst many, again not the version the Holy See likes to spread around.
We also saw a very rare Easter Calendar indicating the days on which Easter would fall between 582 and 626 AD. I learned that Christian Easter was celebrated at the same time as the Jewish Passover until the Church at the Council of Nicea, some 325 years after Christ, decided that this could not be. It was important for political and religious orthodoxy within the young Christian Church to differentiate itself if it was to survive as a separate religion.
In Ravenna you also see that the so called barbarians are in fact trying very hard to integrate themselves into the easy life of the late Roman civilization. The barbarian chieftains wish to give their own people an easier life, a more settled life, with clean drinking water and easy access to food and other conveniences found in city life. The clash comes when the Romans refuse to allow them to migrate through their settlements or into their cities. The Roman legions are stretched and it is difficult to defend if not impossible to stop this human wave of migrants who descend upon the Italian peninsula. Eventually the Romans will have no choice but to accommodate the newcomers. This can be referred to as the fall of the western Roman Empire.
Ravenna, today is landlocked with a canal giving it access to the Adriatic, the great marsh lands were drained about 600 years ago and turned into rich agricultural land. But we could not be in Ravenna without visiting the tomb of the great Italian poet Dante and attending the opera. The summer festival in Ravenna offers many wonderful things, it is held jointly with other music festivals like Whitsun Festival in Salzburg and Madrid. We saw the opera I due Figaro by Saverio Mercadante a sequel to the Marriage of Figaro, the story picks up some 20 years later. It was presented at the Teatro Alighieri, under the direction of Riccardo Muti and the Orchestra Giovanile Luigi Cherubini with the choir of the Vienna Philarmonic.
We also had some very good meals, it is difficult to eat badly in Italy, we found a little place called Bistrot just around the corner from our Hotel, see www.bistrotravenna.it. A very nice place, good food and good service, they catered to people suffering from Gluten intolerance, as many restaurants do in Italy. Our hotel the San Andrea was ideally located within walking distance of all the sights in Ravenna. See www.santandreahotel.com
Am glad we went it was well worth the trip to see this beautiful ancient city.
I don't know if my original comment was posted - it was congratulating you on a marvelous tale, viz. your time in Italy.
ReplyDeleteNo I did not see your original comment, but thank you nonetheless. Indeed it has been a marvellous time.
ReplyDelete